Floor Maintenance Part I: Wood
A Greek poet once wrote that “time is sharp of teeth, and wears away all things.” This is certainly true of your floor. No matter what kind of flooring you have installed, if you don’t maintain it, it will all eventually succumb to wear and tear. In this three-part series, we’re going to look at what you can do to extend the life of hardwood, stone, and tile floors.
Photo: Wikimedia Commons
Properly maintained wood floors can last over a century, but if poorly maintained they may deteriorate in less than twenty years. Contrary to what you might think, sanding and refinishing is not a good idea, since it will take off a small layer of wood each time, and the boards will eventually wear completely down.
Buffing
Also called screening, buffing gently scuffs the top surface of the finish, but only enough to help it absorb a fresh coat that will protect the wood floor for the near future. Buffing every three years means you can postpone the day you actually do have to sand. But if the finish is worn to where the wood is oxidizing, you have no choice but to sand.
Buffing does not go deep enough to fix deep scratches or eliminate stains. It adds gloss and durability but doesn’t change any color.
If you want your floor buffed, you will need to remove all the furniture and any layers of wax on the floor, and let the finish cure for a few days before using that room.
Finishes
The most common finishes are polyurethanes and some natural oils.
Oil polyurethanes have a stronger odor, need more drying time between coats (sometimes a few days), on the plus side they last longer, up to ten years sometimes. Water finishes dry faster and have less odor, but you need more coats of them they aren’t as long-lived. Oil-based polyurethanes require certain chemicals to clean your brushes and hands, but that’s a short-term concern.
Last of all there’s tung oil, naturally occurring in the seeds of the tung tree. Tung oil needs a new coat every year, but unlike the polyurethanes, you don’t have to abrade the surface or remove any of the old finish. A new coat simply goes on top of the old one.
Staining
Wood floors can get discolored by sunlight, spills, and other things. If that happened and the difference bothers you enough, you might want to have it stained again. Staining adds another step or two to the refinishing job, so plan carefully. Test out different stains on loose wood boards. Remember to stir the stain, not shake it. When you’re ready:
- Use a sander to fully remove the old finish and get right down to the wood itself.
- Get rid of all the sawdust with a vacuum cleaner or damp pads/towels.
- Go over it with a damp mop. This will open the wood grain slightly, but don’t get too much water into the boards, and don’t allow any standing water.
- If the wood is soft or irregular, put down a layer of pre-stain conditioner.
- Apply the first stain coat with a brush or sponge. Try to give consistent amounts to each board.
- After 10 minutes, remove any excess stain that may have pooled in places.
- Allow each coat to dry thoroughly, even overnight.
- Apply the finish layer
Waxed floors
Waxing gives floors luster, but wax has to be removed and replaced 2-3 times a year. Removal involves a solution of vinegar and tartar and lots of scrubbing. As with polyurethane, all the wax has to be removed before any new coats of stain go on.
If you just want a new wood floor and you’re in the northern Virginia area, give Unique Carpet & Floor in Manassas a call at (703) 369-1600 or get in touch online.